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Question About MTD Chipper 243-645B000
I'm trying to pull the impeller plate in order to ...

I'm trying to pull the impeller plate in order to replace two bolts that secure front chamber half (illustrated as #42) to the shredder frame (illustrated as #36). Everything works of course, except the motor, mounted to the shredder frame is in no way connected to the chipper chambers and chute. I cannot replace the broken bolts without pulling the impeller. I removed the blade, installed a gear/wheel puller, and put pressure on the center arbor (that is the motor shaft). Nothing budges. Any ideas?

Asked by Ern on 02/17/2012 7  Answers

ManualsOnline posted an answer 12 years, 9 months ago

The ManualsOnline team has found the manual for this product! We hope it helps solve your problem. Get the Manual Here

Ern posted an answer 12 years, 9 months ago

3 Here's the skinny. I got the silly impeller free finally. The center bolt was removed, and I put in a good dose of WD-40 (tip the motor deck and housing). As previously stated, I removed the center blade which vacated two holes in the impeller. I found another 10mm x 1.00 pitch bolt, turned it in my lathe so that the head had a center point. I hooked up a gear puller using the vacated blade captivation holes, and I applied pressure with the puller bolt against the center point of the "sacrificial bolt". After a few seconds, the impeller popped from the tapered motor shaft. There was a keyway in the shaft, but there was NO key present.
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bryce posted an answer 12 years, 9 months ago

0 I have a similar problem. It appears the centre bolt attaches to a thread about an inch down the centre of the impeller, and there is a larger thread in the first inch of the hole in the impeller. I speculate that a bolt inserted in the larger thread and tightened will pull the impeller off. I haven't worked out what thread the larger hole is so haven't tried it yet.
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Ern posted an answer 12 years, 9 months ago

0 Strange. I just notice that as well. I have been using a wheel/gear puller. I first removed the center blade. This gave me two hole in which to mount my puller studs. I sprayed WD-40 down the hole until it filled, leaving it to soak overnight. Then I re-inserted the large fine thread bolt (that mates up with the deeper thread), and I put pressure against the head with the thrust bolt of the gear puller (threaded through the slotted bar in the kit). It didn't budge, even when using an impact tool. I left it under stress for the day, went about my activities. I advised my wife if she heard a big "BANG", not to come shooting. So my next attempt will be to insert a threaded bolt in the larger diameter thread. I am concerned about damaging the smaller diameter thread used by the captivation bolt. I can't very well put a brass plug down there to protect the threads, for I'll never get it out. I'll post a picture of the resulting mess or success.
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Ern posted an answer 12 years, 9 months ago

0 (cont'd) I left it under stress for the day, went about my activities. I advised my wife if she heard a big "BANG", not to come shooting. So my next attempt will be to insert a threaded bolt in the larger diameter thread. I am concerned about damaging the smaller diameter thread used by the captivation bolt. I can't very well put a brass plug down there to protect the threads, for I'll never get it out. I'll post a picture of the resulting mess or success.
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Ern posted an answer 12 years, 9 months ago

0 My surprise: there was ONE bolt holding the housing to the motor. The other three motor bolts were missing, and the two bolts holding the housing to the motor mount frame were missing as well. I tapped out the hole to receive a 5/16 x 24 bolt (switched to SAE). The housing to motor deck I cleaned out to use a 7/16 bolt and stop nut.
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bryce posted an answer 12 years, 8 months ago

0 I finally gave up on mine and took it ti a professional, it felt like there was just too much force necessary on a puller and something might break. For the benefit of others I understand the centre of the impeller is heated when being assembled so that it then contracts into place around the tapered shaft. If someone has the right equipment a quick burst of heat while trying to pull it off might make all the difference.
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