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CHIMNEY CONNECTIONS continued …
CAUTION: Not all fireplaces are suitable
for conversion to a wood stove. Check
with a qualified expert.
Many prefabricated fireplaces are of the “zero-
clearance fireplace” category. These consist of
multilayered metal construction. They are designed
with enough insulation and/or air cooling on the
base, back and sides so they can be safely installed
in direct contact with combustible floors and walls.
Although many prefabricated fireplaces carry
endorsements from nationally recognized
organizations for use as fireplaces, they have not
been tested for connection to wood stove heaters.
Connecting a stove to such a device will void the
manufacturer’s warranty.
Steel-lined fireplaces are constructed with
1/4” firebox liner, an air chamber in connection
with 8” of masonry. These can be safely used with
wood burning stoves. They contain all the essential
components of a fireplace, firebox, damper, throat,
smoke shelf, and smoke chamber. Many look iden-
tical to masonry fireplaces and should be checked
carefully before connecting a stove to them.
Venting a stove directly into a fireplace does
not meet code and should not be attempted. (This
constitutes connection to another appliance - the
fireplace.) Combustion products will be deposited
and build up in the firebox or fireplace. The stove
warranty will be void with such an installation. Do
not create a hazard in your home by connecting in
this manner.
FIREPLACE INSTALLATION
Fig. 13 - Fireplace Conversion
Directly connecting the stovepipe into the exist-
ing masonry chimney (figure 12 “Type A” fireplace
conversion) of the fireplace is the only approved
method of installation. This is a complicated and
involved process and to insure safety should only
by done by a qualified installer.
1. An entry hole must be cut through the masonry
and tile liner with minimal damage to the liner.
At least 8” of liner must remain below the entry
position. When locating the stove and stove-
pipe, all minimum clearances must be observed
from combustible surfaces including mantels,
combustible trimwork, ceilings and walls.
Positioning the center of the stove pipe entry
into the chimney 24” below the ceiling should
insure proper clearance for a 6” stovepipe.
2. Install a metal or fire clay (5/8” minimum thick-
ness) thimble. Make sure the thimble is flush
with the inner surface of the chimney liner and
does not protrude into the flue (see figure 8 on
page 5).
3. Secure the thimble with refractory mortar. The
thimble should be surrounded by 8” of solid
unit masonry brickwork or 24” of stone.
4. Install the stovepipe into the thimble as far as
possible without extending past the flue lining
(see figures 10 on page 6).
5. A small airspace (about 1/2”) should remain
between the stovepipe and thimble to allow for
expansion of the pipe. Seal this airspace with
high-temperature caulking or ceramic wool.
6. Secure and seal the damper in the closed posi-
tion using high-temp caulking, ceramic wool,
or furnace cement. Also check to see if the
chimney has a cleanout. If it does, make sure it
is closed and sealed as well. A leaky cleanout
will greatly reduce draft efficiency.
If you have any questions regarding venting
your stove, contact the manufacturer or contact
the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)
and request a copy of the latest editions of NFPA
Standard 211 and NFPA Standard 908. Their ad-
dress is:
Battery March Park, Quincy, MA 02269.
